The predictable whirlwind of New York fashion week isn’t what it used to be. It’s changed…quite notably. The energy it once generated within the city has shifted, so too has the fervor of the crowd (overwhelmingly composed of those seemingly more interested in being seen than in admiring the technical prowess and/or design excellence of the garments). Still, there were bright spots to be found among the menswear lineup for spring/summer 2025.
Led by industry veterans, Michael Ward and Manel Garcia Espejo, The Salting presentation featured menswear classics – seersucker, a navy blue blazer, nautical stripes, but updated in flowing silhouettes and styled to perfection. The full-cut suiting felt modern, yet familiar. The cotton bow-blouse, the addition of top hats, rope – often shown as innovative lapel accents and neck garnish, all hit the right notes. The monochrome “uniform” looks were also solid and could serve a range of patrons in achieving polish with little fuss. The womenswear felt less inspired.
Jack Sivan presented a refreshing take on tailoring. A self-proclaimed proponent of sustainable design – one could feel that in his textile choices, much of which had an “earthy” appeal, appearing gloriously unrefined and unprocessed. Featured silhouettes, in blue, flax, and teal, were light-years ahead of the familiar construction materials. There were skirts paired back to tailored jackets and further exploration of new suit ideas, including a cropped interpretation of an officer’s jacket atop pleated trousers. It’s also worth noting that featured models reflected the world in which we live – a range of bodies, backgrounds, and ages were on display. While there was much to love overall, the fit of the tuxedo deserved refinement and the womenswear appeared an afterthought.
Tarpley showed its wares in a dimly lit loft. Cool though it may have been, it’s a shame because it impeded the audience’s ability to really see the design details and take in the work. And there was much to appreciate. The finer points of Brooks Jones’ modern take on menswear, with a particularly interesting hand in tailoring, deserved to be seen, fully.The 3-piece suit, complete with what appeared to be a new cummerbund idea, all crafted in technical textiles was the pièce de résistance. There was also a covetable multi-pocket tech pant, paired with an easy, sleeveless graphic tee that felt Tron-worthy cool.
There is fun to be done at Terry Signh, purveyor of the men’s wrap, during the coming spring season. To convey the mood, models donning a mix of tees, cropped jackets, sports jerseys and wraps bounced, gyrated, and bopped throughout the loft in such a care-free manner that it was apparent the services of a choreographer had been foregone. While many of the combos represented manifestations of ideas too new for my sensibilities, there were two alluring formal looks – each multi-layered with nods toward Victorian suiting, but updated for today, and then pushed further.
