Calvin Klein
The big news of NYFW is Calvin Klein’s return with designer, Veronica Leoni taking the helm, continuing the legacy with minimal wardrobe staples that every woman needs in her closet. From the trench to the cape to the suit with a silk blouse and 5 pocket trousers, Leoni reimagined and updated the brand and brought it to the forefront. In Leoni’s toolbox are fabrics like, soft wool and cashmere to firm, dry gabardine and twill, to matte moleskin and brushed cotton, to shiny faille and satin. Flat shoes and clean makeup, added to the practical chic vibe of the looks.
Calvin Klein’s look defined a generation in the nineties with its linear, clean aesthetic. Jewelry and embellishments were not a thing during that time—just the simplicity of a great pantsuit or skirt and shirt combo. Restraint was key to achieving the look of this exciting relaunch. Even the billowing evening gowns were unadorned—not a sparkle in sight. But simplicity doesn’t mean uninteresting.
Pamella Roland
Roland chose a New York institution to present her fall 25 runway show— The Rainbow Room. The gowns were equally classic in their design and evoked Hollywood glamour. Tulle, lace, sequins, gold leaf trim, brocades, and velvet, manifested into gowns worthy of opening night at the opera. Some of her stand-outs are the opening look— a silk evening trench, the red rose gown, and the black lace strapless number with transparency. As a final touch, Chopard jewels were paired with the dresses to underscore the elegance and beauty of the night.
Roland stated in the show notes that she was inspired by the energy of London with its historic landmarks, bustling streets, and regal charm. She certainly achieved regal charm with this well-designed grouping of classic party looks and evening gowns. My favorite was the 3D red rose, centered on Duchess satin.
Aknvas
Designer Christian Juul Nielsen debuted his Fall/Winter 2025 collection of reimagined ball gowns, bubble skirts, and ruffle dresses. The Danish designer entitled the collection Fragmented Royalty in which he ” deconstructed regal garments into freer, more rebellious shapes taking inspiration from Danish Princesses.” If one didn’t know of his inspiration, one may say the runway evoked a youthful insouciance for the fashion forward. It was 18th-century meets Red Carpet Grammy nominee. Layers of ruffles bounded out onto the runway as did taffeta high-low gowns, denim bubble skirts, and dresses made of tulle. Bubble and ruffle looks were not only for the girls but also for the guys on the runway too.
Nielson partnered with Stuart Weitzman for the women’s shoes and Nike for the men’s looks.
Alice + Olivia
The contemporary brand known for bold florals, patterns, and primary colors presented a lively set of fashion vignettes to a packed house on the West side of 14 Street. The theme was Shakespeare in Love, and the sets were created with medieval wall tapestries and renderings of medieval paintings. Models lounged on settees with antique books strewn or piled on the floor with candles flickering. The models wore embroidered corsets, velvet gowns, tiers of ruffles, bold floral patterns, and ruby-red lips. Many more floor-length elaborately designed dresses signal more of an interest in evening or special occasion dressing from the brand.
Alice+ Olivia’s team and the designer Stacey Bendet, are social media savvy and this presentation was no exception. The looks were as bold as the sets and made for great photos to post. The models were directed to give a sexy and confident aire— chins were raised as if to say,” I’m here, take me or leave me.” I love a romp in medieval times and the fashion was attention-grabbing and fun so this was worth the wading through the packed venue.
Frederick Anderson
Mr Anderson can’t resist a party and this season was no exception. The designer who smiles from ear to ear brought us to The Paradise Club at the Edition Hotel where he continued to hone his collection of special occasion party clothes for the women who want to be noticed. J’Nai Bridges, the Mezzo-Soprano, belted out a tune from Georges Bizet’s opera, Carmen, to start the festivities. Zebra animal print, column dresses, and printed silks are part of his repertoire as is lace but he took the transparency in the lace to the next level for fall 25.
HIs customer is the new generation of ladies who lunch and ladies who like a good party— and will find specialty additions to their fall closet from this collection. My favorite? The pale beige sequins gown and suit look with black linear ties.
Bibhu Mohapatra
Mohapatra has a unique and interesting design sense and thinks outside of the box. Billowing angel wings as sleeves, metallic paint slashes on tulle, and linear insets on dresses along with floral appliques are some of the elements he used to create his unique designs. The designer seems to be challenging classic norms, pushing the boundaries of special occasion dressing. His risk-taking may not always hit the mark but it all worked seamlessly for the collection at New York’s Pierre Hotel. Mohapatra advanced evening dressing to a more creatively designed genre and to see it in person was a delight.
Mohapatra said that this collection is deeply personal and draws inspiration from his Indian heritage. To that end, he partnered with the heritage jewelry brand Tanishq to enhance the looks and give them that extra dose of Indian verve.
