Throughout 2016, red lips have been the single most prominent makeup trend. As beautiful as classic strong red lips are (on those who can pull it off), they can be a challenge to incorporate with softer and more youthful looks.
When I was selected to beauty direct Peter Langner’s fashion show in NYC this past March, I wanted to design a makeup look that not only made a statement based off of current makeup trends, but also one that would beautifully compliment his new bridal and evening collections – I had to design a uniform look that would be elegant and appropriate for both his bridal collection and the evening gowns that started the show.
For bridal, the make up look is typically a soft smoky eye and a soft pink or rose neutral lip. Evening makeup has a greater range for variability and creativity – recently where nude or strong red lips with more prominent smoky eyes (oftentimes including a pop of color that compliments the dress) are common. The look I created was a softer version of the classic red lip and smoky eye – whereupon I used a much more sheer blue-toned red lipstick and kept the smoky eye very clean and tight. Lancôme (our official makeup and skincare sponsor) fully endorsed the look I designed, and provided a number of Lancôme products for the show – allowing me to recreate the look with my team on 12 models.
This look got so much positive feedback that I wanted to share the look with my readers. Follow my detailed steps below to recreate this look yourself – a look not only appropriate for your wedding day, but also for an evening out on the town:
Recreating the Lancôme Look:
1) Moisturize and prime the skin: After removing any makeup or skincare products, apply 1-3 pumps of Lancôme’s Beinfait Pure Focus Moisturizing Lotion to the neck and face. Wait 1-2 minutes for the lotion to absorb into the skin, and then apply La Base Pro Pore Eraser. This preps and primes the skin – creating a perfect canvas for makeup application.
2) Create a clean canvas: Allow the primer to absorb, and then use the appropriate shade of Lancôme Teint Idole Ultra 24H Liquid Foundation. Follow up by apply Effacernes Undereye Concealer where needed (it can even be applied on top of blemishes and/or other areas that need additional coverage). Set the foundation and concealer with the appropriate shade of Dual Finish Press Powder. For those with very oily skin, follow up with Lancôme’s Translucence Loose Powder Foundation where needed.
3) Enhance the brow and beautify the eyes: To begin framing the face, make sure to shape the brows into a nice and clean shape using Lancome’s La Tweezer Precise Precision Tweezers. Follow up by using the appropriate color of Les Sourcils Definis Brow Pencil to fill in the brows. Use the attached brush to brush up and shape the brows.
To begin beautifying the eyes, apply Artliner Liquid Liner in Noir along the waterline below the upper lashes. For a more full lash look, “dot” the liquid liner in between the individual lashes of the upper lid. After the liquid liner has dried, apply the appropriate shade of Aquatique Waterproof Eyecolour Base to the lids of the eyes – this is a great eyeshadow primer that enhances setting of the eyeshadow pigment. Use a lighter primer beneath the brow bone. Follow up with Lancôme’s Auda(city) in Paris Eyeshadow Palette – using black close to the eye on the upper lashes and dark brown shades blended upward to just above the crease of the eye. Blend upward with the lighter tones below the brow. Highlight the brow bone with Color Design in Optic. Use Le Crayon Kohl in Black Ebony along the upper lash line – blending it into the lashes and black eyeshadow. Curl the lashes using Lancôme’s Le Curler Lash Curler followed by applying Cils Booster XL Lash Primer. Comb through the lashes with a lash comb to separate the lashes and avoid clumping. Follow up with Grandiose Waterproof Mascara to create long and full lashes. If needed, use a lash comb again to separate lashes.
4) Bring color to the cheeks: Apply a soft sweep of Blush Subtil (for lighter skintones, consider using Blush Subtil in color Blushing Tresor) to the apples of the cheeks and blend upward on the cheek bone into the hairline – remember that less is more! I recommend applying less blush to the brush and building as needed. Polish off the Lancôme look by using the lightest shade of My Parisian Pastels as a highlighter blended into the upper portion of the check bone.
5) Pop the lips: Condition the lips using L’Absolu Rouge La Base Lip Primer. After this has absorbed adequately, fill in the lips using Le Lipstick Waterproof Lip Pencil in Sheer Natural. Apply Shine Lover Sheer Lipstick in 120 O My Rouge. Apply lightly (almost as a lip stain) for a more youthful/soft look. If a more shiny look is desired, apply Juicy Tubes Lip Gloss in color Pure as the final step to complete this Lancôme look.
Austen Parker is a professional makeup artist with a diverse creative and academic background – holding a degree in entrepreneurship and advanced business analysis with additional studies in fine art, art history, and pre-med/cosmetic dermatology.
His passion for makeup combined with a strong understanding of science, skincare and facial anatomy gives him a unique perspective on makeup application – including color placement, blending, and the knowledge of unique melanin patterns – bringing a scientific edge to his artistry. His work includes international fashion & beauty editorials, advertising, corporate & editorial portraiture, television, runway, and destination weddings.